Posts tagged ‘DIY’
DIY Tiered Skirt
The Triple Tiered Twirly Skirt
The Triple Tiered Twirly Skirt
You are not going to believe how simple this is!
Perfect for everyday, this popular children’s (and adult’s) skirt style is literally three rectangles, gathered and sewn together.
Based on my 9YO daughter, this is what I did:
Fabric:
100% Cotton Calico, 2 Coordinating Prints, 1 yard (red) and ½ yard (blue)
Length:
I measured from her waist down to the length where I wanted the skirt’s hem to land.
I took that length, and divided it by 3 (b/c I was making the skirt have 3 tiers). This answer is now the base length (B) for each tier.
I added 2″ inches to the first, uppermost tier, so that I could make a casing for the elastic (¾” no-roll elastic), include seam allowance, and not interfere with the overall length.
The second tier and third tiers needed 1 ¼” added to the lengths for standard ⅝” seam allowances.
Basic Width: (WOF means Width Of Fabric, from Selvage to Selvage)
(A) Top Tier = WOF
(C) Middle Tier* = WOF + ½ WOF
(D) Bottom Tier = WOF X 2
(E) {Bottom Tier for Teen/Adult = WOF X 3}
Optional SUPER Twirly Width:
(A) Top Tier = WOF
(C) Middle Tier* = WOF X 2
(D) Bottom Tier = WOF X 3
(E) {Bottom Tier for Teen/Adult = WOF X 4}
Sew the individual tiers together to make long rectangles for the 2nd and 3rd tiers, where additional width is required.
Sew each tier’s short sides together, creating a loop.
Then, finish these tiers with a tiny rolled hem (awesome if you have a serger for this) along both long sides of each tier.
For the top tier: Create a 1″ casing for your elastic along the top and insert the elastic, and create a tiny rolled hem along the bottom.
Next, use a marking pencil or chalk to mark ⅝ inch (all the way around) measured up from the bottom of the 1st and 2nd tiers. You will use this line for placement of subsequent tiers.
Using a running stitch, gather the top of the second tier, evenly disperse it, and sew it on top of the 1st tier using your line that you drew as a placement guide.
Using a running stitch, gather the top of the 3rd tier, evenly disperse it, and sew it on top of the 2nd tier using your line that you drew as a placement guide.
Ta-Da! Simple, right?
Notes: *An Adult Size Would Begin HERE as the Top Tier. (E) would also be used.
Printable PDF: Click HERE.
DIY Overalls into OverSKIRT
(Just in case you missed our most recent email with an incredible deal on our curriculum, click HERE.)
Convert denim overalls that are too short into an overskirt using an old pair of jeans.
Things you will need:
- a pair of bibbed overalls
- a pair of jeans to cut the legs off of and “donate them” to the overalls
- scissors
- pins
- a sewing machine with a Denim Needle (a Universal Needle should work, too)
- Thread
I have just one suggestion: Try to use donor jean fabric that is the same approximate weight as the skirt. It is tempting to use just any old jeans you have lying around but the result is a stiff section of skirt that doesn’t drape or lay well.
- Seam rip (or frog-stitch) the inseam of the overalls.
- Lay the back seam over to one side.
- Clip to ¼ inch before the curve straightens.
- Lay cut flap down.
- Fold in raw edge of piece with seam, overlap over cut piece and pin.
- Stitch flap in place.
- Repeat steps 5, 6, & 7 on the front.
- Prepare the donor jeans by cutting the legs off at the approximate length needed to fill in the openings of both the front and the back of the future skirt.
- Fold under the raw edges of the skirt and pin the donor piece inside the opening. Straight stitch in place.
- Repeat on the back of the skirt. Trim off any excess fabric from the donor jeans. (BTW. The seam from the donor jeans does not have to be centered. It can be any way you want it.)
You did it!
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Do your bras ever do this?
Do your bras ever do this?
Or worse yet, this?
They are uncomfortable, scratchy and ugly. They’re done for, right? Wrong. If the rest of the bra is still in good shape, then simply fix it. (Yes, it’s simple!) The hooks on the back wings (the strips that go around from the cup to close in the back) are easily replaceable!
The hooks (from a “hook and eye” set) are actually set down in a little pocket, and then sewn in place. All we have to do is use a seam ripper to remove the stitches still securing the old hook to the pocket, and then wiggle a little to remove the old hook.
Next, place a new hook into the pocket, hold it in place with one hand while you hand sew like you would with a 2-hole button.
(Some people might prefer to mark the holes of the hook for ease of sewing. Above, I used two satin pins to demonstrate. Honestly, I do a much neater job when I mark…but I still find myself skipping this step rather often. It’s up to you.)
I would normally use thread as close in color as I could to match the bra, but I used a contrasting thread color this time for your viewing pleasure. J The thread is doubled, double knotted at the end, and six full stitches (or more, if you prefer) are made to secure the new hook going back and forth between the two holes of the hook. I go through all layers to make sure it is good and secure. You can stop short of the last layer if you prefer, but who is going to see it besides yourself?
Then, slip the needle through the stitches on the side of the hook and before you pull it all the way through, loop the needle back through the opening or hole created in the thread twice, and pull tight. This will have knotted off your work, and you can trim away the excess thread and needle.
Flip it over to admire your handiwork.
Not only have you saved a bra, but you’ve saved a ton of money in replacing a bra! Good work!
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