Posts filed under ‘Girls’
DIY Tiered Skirt
The Triple Tiered Twirly Skirt
The Triple Tiered Twirly Skirt
You are not going to believe how simple this is!
Perfect for everyday, this popular children’s (and adult’s) skirt style is literally three rectangles, gathered and sewn together.
Based on my 9YO daughter, this is what I did:
Fabric:
100% Cotton Calico, 2 Coordinating Prints, 1 yard (red) and ½ yard (blue)
Length:
I measured from her waist down to the length where I wanted the skirt’s hem to land.
I took that length, and divided it by 3 (b/c I was making the skirt have 3 tiers). This answer is now the base length (B) for each tier.
I added 2″ inches to the first, uppermost tier, so that I could make a casing for the elastic (¾” no-roll elastic), include seam allowance, and not interfere with the overall length.
The second tier and third tiers needed 1 ¼” added to the lengths for standard ⅝” seam allowances.
Basic Width: (WOF means Width Of Fabric, from Selvage to Selvage)
(A) Top Tier = WOF
(C) Middle Tier* = WOF + ½ WOF
(D) Bottom Tier = WOF X 2
(E) {Bottom Tier for Teen/Adult = WOF X 3}
Optional SUPER Twirly Width:
(A) Top Tier = WOF
(C) Middle Tier* = WOF X 2
(D) Bottom Tier = WOF X 3
(E) {Bottom Tier for Teen/Adult = WOF X 4}
Sew the individual tiers together to make long rectangles for the 2nd and 3rd tiers, where additional width is required.
Sew each tier’s short sides together, creating a loop.
Then, finish these tiers with a tiny rolled hem (awesome if you have a serger for this) along both long sides of each tier.
For the top tier: Create a 1″ casing for your elastic along the top and insert the elastic, and create a tiny rolled hem along the bottom.
Next, use a marking pencil or chalk to mark ⅝ inch (all the way around) measured up from the bottom of the 1st and 2nd tiers. You will use this line for placement of subsequent tiers.
Using a running stitch, gather the top of the second tier, evenly disperse it, and sew it on top of the 1st tier using your line that you drew as a placement guide.
Using a running stitch, gather the top of the 3rd tier, evenly disperse it, and sew it on top of the 2nd tier using your line that you drew as a placement guide.
Ta-Da! Simple, right?
Notes: *An Adult Size Would Begin HERE as the Top Tier. (E) would also be used.
Printable PDF: Click HERE.
DIY Overalls into OverSKIRT
(Just in case you missed our most recent email with an incredible deal on our curriculum, click HERE.)
Convert denim overalls that are too short into an overskirt using an old pair of jeans.
Things you will need:
- a pair of bibbed overalls
- a pair of jeans to cut the legs off of and “donate them” to the overalls
- scissors
- pins
- a sewing machine with a Denim Needle (a Universal Needle should work, too)
- Thread
I have just one suggestion: Try to use donor jean fabric that is the same approximate weight as the skirt. It is tempting to use just any old jeans you have lying around but the result is a stiff section of skirt that doesn’t drape or lay well.
- Seam rip (or frog-stitch) the inseam of the overalls.
- Lay the back seam over to one side.
- Clip to ¼ inch before the curve straightens.
- Lay cut flap down.
- Fold in raw edge of piece with seam, overlap over cut piece and pin.
- Stitch flap in place.
- Repeat steps 5, 6, & 7 on the front.
- Prepare the donor jeans by cutting the legs off at the approximate length needed to fill in the openings of both the front and the back of the future skirt.
- Fold under the raw edges of the skirt and pin the donor piece inside the opening. Straight stitch in place.
- Repeat on the back of the skirt. Trim off any excess fabric from the donor jeans. (BTW. The seam from the donor jeans does not have to be centered. It can be any way you want it.)
You did it!
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DIY Skirt Slit Repair
{YAY! We’re back! We’ve missed you.}
DIY Skirt Slit Repair
(This particular remedy works best when you have a straight slit that does not overlap.)
#1: If you ever wear skirts, you’ve had it happen: The dreaded skirt slit rip! Well, today I am going to remedy this once and for all, and you CAN too. Shame on any rip that gets by THIS fix!!
#2: You will need a scrap of fabric to at least coordinate with the skirt you intend to fix. I am fixing a jean skirt here so I have an old scrap or denim.
#3: Before we can patch and prevent future rips we need to mend the current rip as best we can. The best way is to decrease the side seam just slightly in order to hide the rip in the seam. All this means is that you are going to start a little bit higher than the rip, at the existing seam, and stitch as if you were reinforcing the seam but allowing the seam allowance to become more wide (further into the fabric) as you go until you have passed the rip. (Remember to LOCK the beginning and ending of the seam.)
#4: Roll the existing slit’s hem a little bit past where it is currently. Do this in a graded
fashion
(more at the bottom and gradually less and less until there is nothing left to change and the adjustment effortlessly runs into the manufactured seam) so that the existing seam will be minimally affected. Press it, pin it, and stitch it in place.
Top stitch (as shown below) to frame the new slit.
#5: Prepare the patch. Since I am using denim I am going to both zigzag and add a line of straight stitch inside of that to prevent fraying. If you are using material that is not as prone to fray the zigzag is likely sufficient.
#6: Pin the patch to the inside of the skirt at the top of the slit as shown.
#7: Stitch the patch to the skirt in a reinforced box pattern.
#8: Here it is from the outside.
#9: Here it is — The very sturdy, finished product!
Join us in an upcoming blog to learn how to fill in skirt slits that are too revealing while still leaving room to walk!
***Click HERE for a PRINTABLE version.
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DIY Eye Mask
Happy New Year!
DIY Eye Mask
Part of being healthy is getting a good night’s sleep. Sometimes, that can be difficult. Make your own (very simple) eye mask to help eliminate unnecessary light that may be keeping you awake. My daughter LOVES her eye mask & wears it nearly every night without fail. Little girls love to have a fun little mask to go with their nightgowns. As always we have made this project very easy because we are: Modesty Matters – You CAN Sew!
With just a few materials and about 20 minutes, you can have an awesome tool for a great night’s sleep. These can also be tons of fun for sleep-overs, as party favors, last minute gifts, stocking stuffers, or as ministry donations to a local nursing home or shelter. You could even have a “spa” day with your girls!
These eye masks are made using two layers of fabric (for thinner fabrics, you may want to thicken each layer by making it consist of two pieces, so 1 layer = 2 pieces [see photos below]). You can make both sides from the same material, or from different materials. Complementary color schemes would be fun, but so would different textures. I love for one side to be satin and the other side to be flannel or cotton. Ultimately, it’s up to you!
Before finishing, you could insert some lavender or chamomile leaves to make for a more relaxing sleep experience. It is not necessary, but you might enjoy it. =) Alternately, you could use a layer of fleece between the two outer layers for a more fluffy experience. Try some beans for light pressure, or rice for a warm or cool experience depending on your preference. (Be extra careful if you choose to microwave this as a rice eye mask. ALWAYS test it first.)
For this project, you will need:
- A fat quarter (or two, depending on your preference)
- Pins
- Stretchy Lace or Plain ¼” Elastic
- Machine
- Thread
- Sharp Scissors
- Pattern/Template
A “Fat Quarter” is purely a quarter of a yard of fabric, cut differently than if you plainly asked for a quarter of a yard of fabric. A fat quarter is essentially a large square of fabric with only one selvage edge, whereas a quarter yard is a long, skinny rectangle from selvage to selvage. So, instead of being cut into strips, a yard of fabric is cut into blocks. (See image below.) Not all fabric stores will cut fat quarters by request and therefore you may need to ask.
Separate pieces of mask fabric into groups of two with wrong sides together.
#1-Stitch pieces of elastic to the sides of one group of fabric with the wrong sides facing each other.
#2-Fold the nose piece in half the long way. Press with a warm, dry iron (no steam). PIN. Stitch the raw edges of the nose piece to the nose curve of the same mask group that you just stitched the elastic to.
#3-Layer the other group of fabric in such a way that the elastic and nose piece are concealed or in a sense sandwiched.
#4-Straight stitch (seam allowance= 1/4″) around the layers leaving a 1½” section open. Cut notches
(cut & remove small triangles pointing in towards the seam) around the curves. This helps the piece turn well without crumpled, awkward edges.
#5-Turn and gently press mask, right-side-out. Push the edges of the opening (that you left in order to turn the piece right side out) toward the inside and also press.
#6-Top stitch, using about a ⅛” seam allowance from the edge, while being careful not to catch the elastic or the nose piece in the seam.
Done! J
***Click HERE for a PRINTABLE version.
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Learn the Backstitch
Hand Embroidery using the Backstitch
with
DIY Felt Pillow
Here is a cute & simple little project that you can use to work on learning new hand stitches. Even the little ones in your house can do this one with your supervision. It makes for a great quiet activity and keeps little hands busy. In case you were wondering, this activity is also great for building eye-hand coordination and strengthening those fine motor skills.
The tools needed for this activity:
- Pinking Shears
- Sharp Scissors
- Pattern/Template
- Embroidery Needle
- Embroidery Floss
- 2-8½ X 11 Pieces of Craft Felt
- Batting
- Sewing Machine (optional)
First, let’s dive into the backstitch, itself:
Give yourself a length of embroidery floss not more than 18 inches, and knot it off at the end. (I’ve used a double strand to make it easier for you to see what I am doing.)
Next, come up from the bottom side of the fabric a full stitch length ahead of where you actually want to begin.
Then, re-enter the fabric {back} where you originally wanted the stitching to begin…
…and pass the needle underneath to come up a full stitch length past where the knot was placed.
Now, re-enter the fabric from the top side {back} at the position where the knot is.
Again, pass the needle through the fabric and a full stitch length past where you came up last time.
Now, re-enter the fabric {back} where the prior stitch came through.
Continue to repeat this process until you have accomplished your goal.
Pass the thread through to the back side of the project and knot it off.
Now onto a way in which we can use this lovely and simple stitch! Use a piece of paper to create a template or pattern for your pillow.
(I cut a heart out of notebook paper, but you can probably Google just about any simple image and adjust its size in your printer’s dialog.)
Mark around the very edges of your template using pins in order to give you the ability to eyeball your stitching placement.
I knew that I wanted to stitch the word “LOVE,” so I folded my pattern piece in half in order to give me a straight line to draft the word upon.
With my sizing and spacing figured out, I wrote directly on the felt above my sample writing on the paper.
Through the top layer only, I began my backstitching.
There are lots of ways to do this: You can use a grid to help you with stitch consistency by marking where your stitches should begin. There is a fabulous product out there called Tiger Tape that Quilters use for stitch consistency. You could use a ruler. You could just follow the lines that you drew and try to keep your stitches the same length. I chose the plastic grid that I had handy.
*Stitch Consistency is keeping your stitches all the same length, tension, and same distance apart from each other.*
This is very hard to achieve by hand, however not impossible with much practice.
Using my grid for uniformity, I darkened where every other hole in the grid lined up. Then, I began my backstitch, as shown before, from the underside of the fabric one stitch ahead of where I actually wanted to begin.
Now that you’re finished with the hand embroidery, layer the two pieces of felt together, replace the pattern & move the pins to secure the pattern piece in place. Using pinking shears, cut around the outside of the pattern, leaving about an inch of space between the cut line and the pattern.
With your machine (optional) you can stitch around the perimeter of the pattern piece. If you’re really ambitious, you could just backstitch the perimeter. Remember to leave an opening in order to stuff this cute pillow. Then, simply close it with whatever means you chose to sew the perimeter.
You’ve done it! What an adorable way to practice your hand stitches! This would make a great teacher gift for Valentine’s Day, pet toy, doll cradle decoration, or seasonal decoration. Make three different hearts for Valentine’s conversation hearts as a table centerpiece. Do you have a special neighbor or friend? Is there a nursing home or rehab center nearby? This could really make someone’s day!
With whatever pattern you choose, and whatever word(s) or shape(s) you add, may you truly enjoy the process. Have fun!
Warmly,
Jen & Dee
***Click HERE for a PRINTABLE version.
Check this out:
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You CAN Sew! Quilting Edition
Coming Soon!
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Last Minute DIY Gift:
DIY Fabric Tissue Case
These make great stocking stuffers or small gifts. Quick & Easy! They’re great for your purse, diaper bag, or in the car. These could even be donated to a nearby church, nursing home or rehab facility. My daughter loved these and made some for all of her friends for Christmas.
Here are the things you will need to create these adorable tissue covers: Three (3) identical pieces of fabric measuring 5½” by 3½” for the small,
(or 11 ½” by 7½” for the large), sharp scissors and a hem ruler.
Fold two (2) of the pieces in ½” along the long side and press.
Fold these two (2) pieces again (1″ for the small size, and 2½” for the large size) and press.
Overlap the folded edges on top of the bottom piece with right sides together.
Straight stitch all the way around the rectangle at ¼” seam allowance for the small and ⅝” seam allowance for the large size. Clip corners.
Turn right side out and insert tissue.
For the small, insert small tissue packets leaving on the plastic.
For the Large, remove the flat tissue from a box of about 100 two ply tissues. Insert the tissue alone without the box.
I hope you enjoy these. They are a great way for a young lady to make her own gifts for her friends, or even as a ministry donation. Enjoy!
Merry Christmas!
Warmly,
Jen & Dee
***Click HERE for a PRINTABLE Version.
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DIY Ribbon Ornament
DIY Ribbon Ornament
My children LOVE making these! They choose the recipients, and they choose the ribbon based on who they are making it for. It keeps those little fingers busy, hearts happy, and minds thoughtful. Traditionally these are made with fabric, but I LOVE ribbon. This is a great gift for less than $5 that is sure to please! If you have an hour before bed, you can even make these as a last minute gift for someone special. You can keep it traditional Christmas colors (reds, greens, silver & gold), or you can tailor the gift.
Materials:
- A Plethora of Satin Pins or Appliqué Pins (size 17 or smaller)
- A Small Styrofoam Ball (2½ inches works well)
- A Spool or Two of Your Favorite Ribbon(s) (⅞“or 1½” wide)
- A Hot Glue Gun or Fabric Glue
Instructions:
Cover the north and south poles of the ball with a flat piece of the ribbon being used.
At the north pole, place a satin pin as a marker right in the center of the ribbon covering. Do not stick it all the way in as you’ll be removing this pin momentarily.
Then, cut strips of ribbon twice as long as the width. If you are using 1.5″ wide ribbon, you’ll want to cut 3″ strips of ribbon. If you are using ⅞” wide ribbon, just round off the length to 2″ per strip.
Choose a starting point to begin the placement of your strips. Center a strip of ribbon, up-side-down, according to the pin marker. Pin the ribbon at the top center.
Next, take the top right corner of this same strip and fold it toward the center bottom of the strip, creating a triangle which shows the “pretty side” of the ribbon. Repeat with the upper left corner.
Directly across from the top point of that triangle, repeat the entire process. Then, fit one in between those two on one side, and then the other side, for a total of four (4) strips folded into triangles.
Begin the next level, or row, with the center point starting between two of the previous row’s triangles, and about ¼” down. This row, and the next row, will each require eight (8) strips.
Then, move to the next available position between triangles, and so on.
Do this until half of the ball is covered, and then begin all over again at the south pole until the two sections meet.
Wrap a ribbon around the center where they meet and hot glue or pin it in place.
Add a looped ribbon for hanging, a bow, and/or further embellishments.
This is the ornament my daughter made for a special teacher.
My son made this ornament for his daddy, because daddy loves football:
Be creative, but more importantly, have fun!
Warmly,
Jen & Dee
***Click HERE for a PRINTABLE version.
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DIY Wet Bag
DIY Wet Bag
If you are into cloth diapers and/or cloth momma pads for the sole purpose of being more green, or simply more healthy, then this wet bag is for you! Even if it has nothing to do with being green, this wet bag may be right for you. It is re-useable, so it creates less waste. It is customizable, so it can be very personalized. It’s portable, so it can travel wherever you go. It can hang on the bathroom door knob (or any door knob) for convenience without creating an eyesore.
I personally use it when I travel in order to keep my unmentionables unseen. It is a great dirty laundry bag for those items you don’t really want others seeing…and, it is washable!
Materials:
- 28″ X 12″ Piece of water proof or water resistant fabric like PUL (left) or ProCare Barrier Fabric (right)
PUL (LEFT – Purple) is a vinyl (shiny) backed fabric that is soft to the touch. It feels a lot like flannel on the “right side.” PUL is lighter or less thick/dense than ProCare Barrier fabric. ProCare (RIGHT – Aqua) is similar to a durable vinyl tablecloth with the exception of the backing being some sort of affixed woven mesh with a matte finish. PUL is commonly used in cloth diapers and diaper covers, both infant and adult. ProCare is hospital grade, non-woven, waterproof fabric.
- 7-9″ Exposed Zipper
- A Zipper foot and a Teflon (non-stick) Universal Foot for your Machine
- 8-9″ Long Piece of ⅞” Wide Webbing
- 1 Complete Snap Set
- 8-10 Quilt Binding Clips or Rubberized Mini Clamps from a Hardware Store (No Pins b/c we don’t want to create holes for liquid to sneak through.)
- Thread
- Marking Pencil
- Sharp Scissors
- Sewing Machine
Instructions:
Remove the selvages from the piece of fabric.
ZIPPER: The two shorter edges will be where the zipper goes, so lay the piece of fabric in front of you in a tube shape with that opening between the two shorter edges facing up. You should be looking at the “right” side of the fabric which is the side you want to see when the project is finished.
Lay the zipper, centered, on one side of the opening. Mark where it begins and ends.
Placing right sides together, sew a straight stitch using a 5/8 inch seam allowance from your mark to the nearest edge on both sides. Remember to lock your seams.
(If you are using an invisible zipper, now is the time to press it open. Zipper instructions are always included with the zipper when purchased – it’s part of the packaging.)
Place your zipper back in the center and secure it. Keep in mind how you want the finished product to look and work. Doing so will help you make sure you get the zipper in the correct way.
Notice above, the front of the zipper is facing the “right” side of the fabric and the whole zipper is moved over to the right hand side. Using the appropriate zipper foot, sew this side in place. Zip up the zipper and secure it in place on the other side of the fabric.
Now, sew this side of the zipper in place.
You should currently have a tube with a zipper inserted. Flatten out this tube and roll the zipper over the top by about four inches so that the zipper will be on the front of the bag, rather than the top.
WEBBING: Fuse the ends of the webbing, either by melting them or by sealing them. Decide on the placement of your webbing, and tuck it inside the tube aligning its edge with the raw edge/side seam of the bag. I like it on the side of the zipper when it is completely closed, so I placed mine just above the seam on that side. (I made it stick out so you could see it.)
Straight stitch, using your Teflon* universal foot, down the right side of the bag using a ⅝” seam allowance. Remember to lock your seams. Unzip your zipper, and straight stitch down the left side. Again, lock your seams. Now, we’re ready to add gussets!
*If you do not have a Teflon foot for your machine, you can use a piece of cellophane gift wrap tape on the bottom side of your regular universal foot. Remember not to cover the area where the needle will penetrate the fabric. Keep that slit or hole free of tape so as to not gunk up your needle.
GUSSETS: Gussets increase the amount of useable space in a bag like this, and they are so simple to incorporate! There are several ways to do this. One way is to measure and mark as we did with the Zippered Pouch, and another it to create and use a template as such:
I wanted my gussets to be 3″ deep, so I measured a triangle from the corner of a piece of grid paper (any paper will do). I lined up the paper with the grid lines on my cutting board. When the measurement reached 3″ across the triangle’s base as shown above, I drew a line, and cut off the triangle. Of course, you’ll need to make sure the sides of this right triangle measure the same length too – hence, my grid. =) For you wonderful math people out there, just use the algorithm a2 + b2 = c2.
Roll the side seam at the corner until the seam itself is centered in the triangle. Secure the template. Straight stitch across the long edge of the triangle. Lock the beginning and ending of this seam. Repeat this procedure on the other three corners.
You can trim the fabric triangles off leaving ¼” to ⅝” seam allowance, if you want to.
Turn the bag right sides out and admire your handiwork. Not only have you inserted a functional zipper, but you’ve made gussets as well! Good job!
SNAPS: The final step is to place your snaps (according to your snap setter … there are several different kinds) on the webbing to create a loop for holding or hanging the bag. Fold over the far end of the webbing by about an inch and affix the one side of the snap set. Then, fold that piece over toward the bag in order to place the other half of the snap set where you want it to be for a good fit.
Ta-Da!
You CAN Sew!
***Click HERE for a PRINTABLE version.
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No-Sew Fleece Blanket
No-Sew, Single Layer, Fleece Blanket
Here is a fantastic opportunity to make something without having to sew! This particular project is great for creative kids & adults who love to make things, and is often used as a “Project Linus” donation when completed.
All you need is 1½ yard of no-pill fleece (it won’t ravel or pill up), a ruler, a marking pen or pencil, a pair of sharp scissors, and about an hour of free time.
1st – Remove the selvages off of the two sides.
2nd – (Optional) Square off the end/edge where they cut it at the fabric store. They usually cut it unevenly.
Then, cut a 4” X 4” square out of each of the four corners. I have my fabric folded over so that I am cutting two layers (two corners) at once.
Now, use a pencil, evaporating fabric marker, or chalk to mark a line four inches above the raw edge, connecting the inner corners of the squares you just cut out. This line will be your “stopping point” with your scissors.
Yes, I am a little uneven here, but it will not be evident in the final product. This is such a forgiving project!
Next – Using a ruler for a guide, cut one inch strips (doesn’t have to be exact) up to the line you just made. My fabric is still folded over, so I am cutting two strips simultaneously.
Fold each strip all the way up to where it meets the body of the blanket, and snip a small section in the middle of each strip creating a hole.
Finally, grab the strip and push it back through the hole.
Tug lightly. Continue this all the way around the blanket. (It looks really nice if you only pull every other one [strip] through the hole from the top-side, and the remaining strips pull through the hole from the bottom-side.)
That’s all there is to it! Now, you have a finished blanket. These make great gifts, sporting event bench warmers, ministry donations, travel blankets, and more! You can even customize them by using favorite college team colors. Have fun!
Warmly,
Jen & Dee
***Click HERE for a PRINTABLE version (pdf)
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Creative Deviations
Hello! I am recovering from the flu, but found enough energy to post this “must see.” I have some fun creative deviations for you from last week’s project where we made the DIY Felt Gift Card Holder / Ornament that resembled a wrapped gift. Just look what else you can do using some felt, embroidery floss, ribbon, and a few of the same hand-stitches:
Creative Deviations
How about a cute Santa belt? Just slit a piece of black ribbon and thread the gold ribbon through it!
Keeping your skills sharp – Here is another example of the gift card holder featured above using a different shape:
Simply get one of your favorite little people and trace around their hand like a mitten. Use this drawing as a template.
The mitten and cuff (Cut 2).
Simple adornment: Wreath. (Cut 1)
Pin the wreath (looks like a large “o”) on the top layer of the mitten, secure it with a blanket stitch or a simple running stitch, and add French Knots to simulate holly berries. Then, use the blanket stitch to secure the two mitten shapes together. Be sure to leave the top open for the gift card by only blanket stitching through the top layer along the cuff.
Here it is!
Add some large dots for berries with a couple of leaf shapes and you have this sweet little holly berry mitten gift card holder:
Let’s go cuff-less!
I simply cannot forget the snowman! I just overlapped two paper circles, one smaller than the other, and taped them together. Then, I pinned them to the felt and cut around the perimeter. Again, just blanket stitching and French Knots!
Have fun with your own creative deviations! You CAN Sew!
Warmly,
Jen & Dee
We’ve joined the following hops to share our ideas this week: (Please visit one, or all, of these great sites for countless free project ideas and inspiration! If you are visiting from one of these great sites, thank you for coming!Your comments are truly appreciated.)
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